As predicted, he had taken us to the train so he could get a tip. Demand is a better word actually. We offered him loose change and he even bargained down for us (10,000 to 5,000 dong each), but when we just stood there, he started cursing! So I said I know what he's saying, it's not very nice and to take it or leave it, and he walked away huffing without taking the money.
Sure it's easier if someone can direct you to the train, since it's a bit hard to see platform signs and cabin numbers, but it's not really necessary.
The cabin wasn't bad at all, and we got a bottle of water each. The duvet was thick and warm, and we could recharge camera batteries too. Sure it was a bit difficult getting changed under cover, and there wasn't much space for luggage for four, BUT (some of) the toilets actually had toilet paper, so no complaints haha.
We left Hanoi at 9:50 pm and arrived at Lao Cai 6:30 am. There were staff checking tickets but I couldn't find mine, but after a while they left and I just walked out...whew.
We were left waiting at a restaurant. A Chinese-French couple were complaining up a storm, about the late pick-ups and the constant waiting and the unfriendly people etc etc which was really amusing.
Finally a mini bus came and a bunch of people got out and we were told to get in...except those people were just out on their toilet break, so they had to come in again...there was a minute there when we all thought it wouldn't be possible, and people got stressed because they were told we would be moved into a bigger bus (I hear that one all the time!), but we put the aisle seats down and made do, and the guide started singing...first a Welcome to Vietnam song...then 'Yesterday' (almost killed myself laughing), so that lightened the mood.
Destination? the famous Bac Ha market in northern Vietnam, where ethnic minority groups in the surrounding area get together to trade every Sunday. We arrived at 11 am, with 2 hours to stroll around. The riot of colours that greeted us was fantastic, and the merchandise looked very nice, although I didn't do any shopping because I didn't want to carry stuff for 2 months.
There were of course stalls devoted to tourists, and definitely a lot of tourists around; still, everywhere the Black Hmong, Flower Hmong and other peoples were going about their business, buying and selling pots, beans, grains, chillis, and having a meal, so it hasn't become a complete tourist market.
most of the women here appeared to be from the Flower Hmong tribe, but this lady in green may be a Dzay...although there were at least half a dozen ethnic groups so I can't be sure...
anyway I bought small peaches from her. I gave her all my small change (4,000 dong) and she started heaping peaches into a bag before I stopped her at 12. They were a bit green but so good for quenching my thirst :)
scenes from the market:
stumbled upon the livestock section - chickens in cool bamboo capsules, piglets squealing as they were pulled out of hessian sacks by their hind legs for potential buyers to examine, and then there were these gorgeous black puppies...they weren't treated all that well as I saw them being pulled roughly by their leash, so I am not sure if they are food or working pet...
not sure what these are...look like hoes, may be they are used in tilling the field?
cutie just finished eating an ice block. I was searching for them but couldn't find any!
so cool to stumble upon an impromptu performance!
i think this is part of the device that they use for tilling rice paddies...one end attached to the water buffalo, the other end goes into the ground...i think
there's food here, but I was a bit frightened by the unidentifiable stuff I saw, especially the meat - gnarly messes of bones, gristle, tendon
The lady smiled at us and let us take a photo of her lighting up, which was really nice of her :) Also just had to take a photo of a bamboo pipe that's still green...
best smile of the day
snake...deconstructed
a really beautiful girl shopping with her family...she bought plastic slippers, which everyone wears; our pregnant trekking guide went up and down steep slopes in these things...
gorgeous kiddies posing for the camera, just adorable!
checking out the wares on the main street
bright on bright...and still beautiful!
The scene outside the restaurant where we had lunch. This was the only time we were hassled on the street. The bags were beautiful, handmade and cheap, if only I could have shipped some home! haha. I did buy a pair of hoop earrings (i was just looking but then the lady shoved them in my ears so i thought why not? haha. i wore them for 3 months and loved them but they are gone now...because I took them off before flying back to Sydney...sigh...the other thing I bought was part of the Flower Hmong dress, and I only bought it coz the lady came and found me after I'd walked off, and gave me a lower price...I'll probably frame it...)
After lunch, we visited the Vietnam/China border; basically stood on the side of the river and looked at the Chinese city of Hekou (lit. Rivermouth) on the other side. We also walked through a couple of villages. Quite rude really, walking into people's homes and taking photos...then walking out. It's pretty rude even without the photo-taking, as we were on people's properties and not offering anything in return. What was the guide thinking? Anyway, this was my first real taste of ethno-tourism, and it lost its appeal fast...
It was a long day and I was glad to get back to our hotel - Gold Sea, a really lovely place with great view on the top floor (arranged by Ocean Tour, where we customised this trip). We had a 3 course dinner (included) and non-alcoholic drinks were only 10,000 dong! Very pleased after a tiring day :)
During my time there, USD$1 = ~ 19,300 Vietnamese Dong
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