Despite his wish to be cremated, Ho was preserved for display. We followed a line that wound around three sides of the great leader, and I was amazed by how well preserved he was, especially the hair and nails. Apparently Uncle Ho spends 3 months/year in Russia for special preservation treatment. Whatever it is, it's working as he doesn't look waxy at all. Soldiers lining the small chamber quietly stepped forward occasionally to usher people and to make sure they stayed in line. The whole procession took only 30 seconds at best.
we exited out the back of the mausoleum, an appropriately sombre and stately building
The One Pillar Pagoda is practically next to the mausoleum; the proximity means the grounds were packed with tourists. The temple was first built in 1049 by Emperor Lý Thái Tông in gradtitude to a Bodhisattva for granting his wish of having a son. The temple was rebuilt after its destruction by the French in 1954 in the First Indochina War.
This Buddhist temple is built of wood on a single stone pillar 1.25 m in diameter, and designed to resemble a lotus blossom emerging from mud, a Buddhist symbol for the purity of the spirit, which can rise beautiful and spotless out of darkness and impurity.
Just off to one side was a small courtyard, surprisingly tranquil even though it's mere steps from the temple. There were small pagodas venerating Buddhist deities and monks. I enjoyed this little bit of peace, as there were just too many people around. Again, I loved the flower-adorned altars, and the petals in the pots.
I also like the little blind!
*
Then off to the Temple of Literature or Van Mieu. I wish I had come early because I could have easily spent a whole day here. The sheer size, and the tranquility, made this my favourite sightseeing spot in Hanoi.
The Temple of Literature was established as a Confucian temple in 1070, and became Vietnam's first national university in 1076. It functioned as a centre of education for the country's elite for more than 700 years...and more than 2000 students graduated from here during that time
the main entrance
the first of five courtyards; the centre path was reserved for the Emperor, and the side paths were used by the officials
gate to the 2nd courtyard
gate to the 3rd courtyard
the third courtyard, dominated by the "Well of Heavenly Clarity"
There are two pavilions on the sides of the pond, housing 82 impressive stone turtle stele, which are inscribed with the names and birth places of the students who were awarded their doctorate at the university.
really interesting roof tiles; they look like leaves
each turtle is unique!
a recurring theme - cranes and turtles, symbols of longevity, in the fourth courtyard, leading to the Great House of Ceremonies
an altar flanked by yet more cranes on turtles, just outside the Great House of Ceremonies. I saw people rubbing the turtle...for luck, probably
i think it's cast in bronze...it looks fierce!
little surprises - a stone lion at the threshold, and fading dragons on the pillars
A statue of Confucius, being venerated by people of all ages
these looked like school girls trying to get blessings for their exams!
the fifth courtyard or Thai Hoc; the university was situated here. it's flanked by a bell and a drum tower
now you can see the layout of the place! not sure if the triangular bit to the left still exists though
a wall relief depicting a carp crossing the dragon gate to become a dragon, a metaphor for those that pass the difficult exams and go on to greater things.
more altars upstairs (and more cranes on turtles!)...tbh, i have no idea who these people are...
beautiful roof tiles and tokens/money thrown for luck
If I ever come back to Hanoi again, this is one place I'd re-visit.
*
That night, I went to the water puppet show, which showcased 10 little skits accompanied by traditional music, including the legend of of the turtle god taking back a magic sword that the heavens lent Emperor Le Loi to drive out the Chinese. It was very enjoyable, and only cost 40,000 dong (plus 15,000 dong for photography)!
We had to queue up the night before to get tickets, and then join the phenomenal queue again to get in. Later by the lake I heard a boy and his mum saying they are sad to have missed out on the show...so best get your ticket early!
During my time there, USD$1 = ~ 19,300 Vietnamese Dong
0 bons mots:
Post a Comment